Under the Choko Tree By Nevin Sweeney

Tool Storage - Setting up the Garage

By Bill Tarplee

One of the tasks that many of us face in the setting up of a practical, well laid-out workshop and while this should be an enjoyable job, it is one that requires much thought and planning if we are to achieve maximum usage of the available space.

This is the way I have set up a very small garage to hold a wide range of wood and metalworking equipment. While you may not have such a restricted space, I believe that by following my example you will gain better value from your available space.

My garage is solid brick and is about seven metres long, by just over three metres wide. Since I like to park the car under cover, i have had to design my tool storage around the car parking space.

Firstly, I should point out that I used a similar method of construction for both my cupboards and moveable stands, the heavy machinery has required greater strengthening of the stands and somewhat heavier materials but that is all.

I chose to use plywood for all my construction, it is the cheapest material available in this locality and has by far the greatest strength. Chipboard will do the job, but it is heavier and will bow and bend under weight. If you can’t obtain ply, by all means use chipboard, floor boards or even the heavier thicknesses of masonite on a wooden framework.

My basic construction method is to make up a box of ply. I use ply ranging from 12 mm to 25mm in thickness depending on what weight it has to support.

My first step is to decide upon the size required. In the instance of my general tools cupboard I used some old imperial sheets of ply 4 foot by 2 foot by ½ inch (1 metre x ½ metre x 12mm). I cut out sides 1 metre x 150mm and edges 500mm x 150mm (two of each). These I nailed and glued on the flat garage floor. I then nailed the front and back to the sides, and used a nail punch to drive all the 25mm jolt head nails below the surface. While I was waiting for the glue to dry I filled all the nail holes.  When I am filling furniture that is purely for my own use I usually mix up a small quantity of Plastibond, as it sets quickly and doesn’t show to any degree on pine.

I like to leave the glue to dry for a day and then smooth off any overlapping edges with a very sharp smoothing plane – No4. I then use the same plane to round all the edges. With that done, I sand down the entire case with an orbital sander so that I get a smooth finish on all surfaces and edges.

In the case of the tool cupboard pictured the front ie doors holds a variety of hand tools thus they require some thickness. I mark a line 25mm from the front along each side and edge with a marking gauge but you could draw the line with a pencil if you wish.

Main tool cupboard - closed

Using a tenon saw, because of its fine cut (kerf) I cut across each corner so that the cut runs along each side and end for about 100mm. This is about as far as you can cut before the stiffening rib on the back of the saw fouls the wood. Cut each of the four corners in this manner.

Using the end (toe) of the saw, with the handle slightly raised, cut toward the middle of the side or end. Just before reaching the middle, stop and cut from the other end, leaving about 50mm of uncut wood in the middle of each side and end.

Preferably using butterfly hinges, hinge each end at the top and bottom, then cut out the remaining sections. Cut across the front of the box and the two doors will open out. Varnish the outer surface (and inside too if you wish) and fit a pair of magnetic catches and you are ready to hang the cupboard on the wall. All my cupboards are supported on screws run into plastic plugs in the bricks.

Main tool cupboard - open

In the case of the main tool cupboard, I masked around the edges and applied two coats of blackboard paint after the varnish had dried. I glued a thin board to the bottom for a chalk rack and glued strips to the top to hold my spring clamps and spot lights. You can arrange the inside to hold whatever tools you wish.

I have another tool cupboard of this type of construction but in this case it is mounted vertically, where as the first was mounted horizontally. The second holds most of my files, my glues, my abrasives and oil stones. In it I fitted several shelves in the back of the case and used the doors to hang files. Each file is held by a spring steel clip, which you can buy in the larger hardware stores.

The machinery is mounted on similar boxes, using somewhat thicker ply. In the stand for my printing press I used 5/8 inch (17mm?) ply as it has to support a vibrating weight of about seventy kilos. Possibly I could have used the 12mm stuff but I didn’t want it to collapse half way through a printing run.

In this instance I built the centre shelf, and shelves at one end. The right hand end is set inside the sides by about 150mm. This has given a far stronger construction without any increase in weight, there was no framework used for the construction, the nails being driven through the top and bottom straight into the side plies.

Bottom of vertical cupboard and sandpaper storage cupboard

Because of my lack of workshop space, all machinery boxes are moveable. I use a pair of recycled lawn mower wheels, sets of which I usually buy for a dollar a pair (1980s prices – Nev). They are mounted through a pair of pine floor boards which are bolted along the bottom of the case, one board being bolted to each side of the case. I use normal black steel rod for the axle, cutting it to length after the two supports have been bolted to the box. You will need the bolts (coach bolts) per side, any more is just wasting bolts.

The wheels project beyond the end of the box and just touch the floor when the box is at rest. I have found that if the wheels constantly support the weight of the machine they will eventually collapse under the strain. This way they only support the weight when the other end of the box is lifted.

Even with the press mounted almost over the wheels, i found that the weight was too great to move comfortably so I fitted a pair of slip shafts. The shafts run through a pair of bent steel straps which are bolted not the bottom of the box. Had the door not fouled the shafts I’d have mounted the shafts lower down.

In cutting the doors out I usually mark the doors out before I nail the case together. I work out the door size required and mark it out with a soft pencil, making as fine a line as possible. I use the end of a jam tin to trace the curve of the corner where the lines join. I drill a hole beneath where a hinge will be screwed and cut out around the line with a sabre saw (erroneously known as a “jig” saw). With the curves in the corners, I can cut out the door with one pass. Had the case been slightly longer or if I hadn’t moved one end in to fit the exterior shelves, I’d have cut out two separate doors and left a 100mm strip between the doors. This would have given an even stronger box. (the way it is I’ve had no problems with the strength.

Note: With all these types of boxes you must work out which way the load will fall. If the box is to support a weight on the top, the top and bottom must overlap the sides, rather than being fit inside the sides. This is the principle used in making card houses, and greatly increases the weight carrying capability.

I made some cupboards to fit inside the recess on top of the garage windows form short lengths of ash floor boards, scrounged from a building site. When polished and varnished they made a high quality piece of garage furniture. The cupboard fits exactly inside the window recess and is supported on a board that is bolted across the recess. The case sits on the board and I used one metal strap on the top which is bolted back to the bricks, and stops the box from tipping forward.

The hammer rack is one that gave me much thought. My dad gave me the idea and i modified it slightly to use up some scrap ply. I comprises of a sheet of ply bolted to the wall, to this is screwed a piece of 25mm ply with the holes in it to accommodate the hammer heads. To stop the hammers tipping forward and falling out, there is a top frame under which the hammers fit. To take the hammer out you pull the head out of the hole and then let the hammer drop down.

Hammer Storage Rack

If you make a hammer rack, be sure to grease the sides of each hole with car grease, Vaseline or dry lube. If you don’t you will find the hammers starting to rust where they contact the bare wood.

If you follow my directions, sand the ply well and apply several coats of varnish or polyurethane, you will produce cupboards equal in quality and finish  to any built-in furniture in your house – and cheaper!

 

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